Vegetarian in Japan: how to eat well every day (from people who do it)

What “vegetarian” means in Japan

The word vegetarian (bejitarian) is widely understood, especially in Tokyo. But in Japan it usually still allows egg and dairy. Many Indian vegetarians do not eat egg, so say it separately, every time.

Vegan (biigan) means no animal products at all. It is a useful word even if you eat dairy, because vegan dishes are also free of fish stock.

The trap: dashi

Dashi is the stock at the base of Japanese cooking, usually made from dried bonito fish flakes. To most cooks it is not fish, it is just flavour, so “no meat, no fish” does not catch it. A plate of simmered vegetables can be cooked entirely in fish stock.

The safe stock is kombu dashi, made from kelp only. If a kitchen can make a dish with kombu dashi, you are fine.

• 魚のだしは入っていますか？

  Sakana no dashi wa haitte imasu ka?

  Does it contain fish stock?

• 昆布だしなら大丈夫です。

  Kombu dashi nara daijoubu desu.

  Kelp stock is fine.

• 卵も食べられません。

  Tamago mo taberaremasen.

  I can't eat egg either.

More phrases, and a card to print or save on your phone: Japanese phrases for vegetarian and Jain travellers.

What works, every day

Indian restaurants

Tokyo has hundreds of Indian and Nepali restaurants, and they are the most reliable vegetarian meal in the city. Dal, sabzi, paneer and naan, with no dashi questions to ask.

Shojin ryori

Japan's Buddhist temple food is fully plant based and made without fish stock. It is a set meal, often booked in advance, and one of the best things a vegetarian can eat in Japan.

Vegan restaurants and vegan ramen

Tokyo's vegan scene has grown fast. Vegan ramen is the easiest way to try ramen safely: standard ramen broth is almost always made from pork, chicken or fish.

Simple orders, with a question

• Cucumber roll

  Usually veg

  かっぱ巻き kappa maki

  Cucumber, rice and seaweed. One of the safest things in a sushi shop.

• Pickle roll

  Usually veg

  おしんこ巻き oshinko maki

  Pickled daikon roll. Fine for vegetarians.

• Inari sushi

  Ask first

  いなり寿司 inari-zushi

  Rice in sweet fried tofu. The tofu is often simmered in dashi.

• Vegetable tempura

  Not veg

  野菜天ぷら yasai tenpura

  Batter often contains egg, the dipping sauce is dashi, and the oil is shared with seafood.

• Cold tofu

  Ask first

  冷奴 hiyayakko

  Plain tofu, but it usually comes topped with bonito flakes. Ask for it without.

• Edamame

  Usually veg

  枝豆 edamame

  Salted soy beans. Safe almost everywhere.

Breakfast and lunch are the hard meals

Hotel buffets in Japan have bread, fruit, cereal and eggs, plus Japanese dishes that often contain dashi or fish. Lunch on a day trip is the other gap, because you are away from the places you know.

Convenience stores fill both gaps, if you know what to pick: convenience store food for vegetarians.